steering arm

If you do buy steering in a junkyard, check it over as carefully as you would select
a used transmission, even to taking off the box cover and washing it with solvent
so you can inspect the teeth on the gears. Inspect the box for defects, cracks,
welds, etc., and if bit's still in a car, try it out to see if it binds or
has any play in it. If you're getting one from another model or year than your
own car, see how many turns it is from lock to lock so you can determine if it has
the ratio you want.
Before you start thinking about throwing out your steering and replacing it, check
into it thoroughly, and even before attacking your steering box, try to determine
first if it isn't something else which may be affecting the handling or steering.
Things like poor shocks, unbalanced wheels, a misaligned front end, bad wheel
bearings, or improper tire pressure can produce the same symptoms as defective
steering gear.
If everything else checks out, then inspect your tie-rod ends and idler arm's. As
trouble-free and long lasting as these parts are, they wear out long before your
steering box. Jack up the front end or put the car on a hoist and push up and
down on the idler arm. If it's loose, pull it off and inspect it. Usually there
is a bushing in the end that should be replaced. Tie-rod maintenance involves pushing
up and down on the end of the tie-rod, checking for play just as with the
idler arm. To remove them you may have to borrow a mechanic's "tuning fork" or "pickle
fork," which is a heavy steel bar forked at the end. It's machined at an
angle, like a wedge, so that you can put the fork between the tie-rod end and the
steering arm. Hitting the end of the bar with a hammer forces the stud of the
tie-rod end out of its socket in the steering arm. Above all, the most important
thing to remember when doing any work on the front suspension or steering is to
never leave out the cotter pins. The life you save definitely will be your own

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